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Unusually for a stylist, Lambert has just four clients: Styles, Everton footballer Dominic Calvert-Lewin, and The Crown actors Emma Corrin and Josh O’Connor (each of whom has a body double who tries on outfits the day before). Which explains why some of the big Hollywood ones – Law Roach, say, who put Zendaya in a hot pink breastplate, or Karla Welch, who put Justin Bieber in extra-long sleeved T-shirts – are household names, if you live in that sort of home. No one knows how much money changes hands, but given that many celebrities require stylists as much off stage as on (the walking-to-the-car-holding-a-juice outfit, can be as considered as what is worn to the Grammys) the celebrity stylist has never been more powerful. It is built on the (often erroneous) belief that celebrities’ clothes are extensions of their personalities, rather than a mutually-beneficial marketing tool. The red carpet has become an economic entity. It wasn’t until the mid-00s and Rachel Zoe – who turned her cadre (Paris Hilton, Lindsay Lohan) into avatars of her stick-thin self, and is rumoured to have commanded $10,000 per day – that stylists became as famous as their clients. ‘We thought: “Let’s do something that most people aren’t going to get”’ … Emma Corrin at the Olivier awards in April.Photograph by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images to SOLT By the early 70s, the studio system was over, so stars dressed themselves, which didn’t always go well (Google any Oscars ceremony in the 1980s). In Hollywood’s golden age – Lambert’s favourite era – actors were styled by costume designers from the studios. He’s wearing wide-legged Marni trousers in chequerboard brown, large black pearls and a T-shirt lightly stained with breakfast.Ĭelebrity stylists are relatively recent. Lambert, 35 years old, is warm and friendly with a gentle East Anglian accent. In the other, clothes rails are arranged. Platform shoes are spilling out of an Ikea Kallax unit in one room. We’re sitting on a bench in the communal garden behind his two-room studio in Hoxton, east London. I’m aware that what I do is having an impact, but is that top of the agenda for me? No.”
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“If you look at pop icons over the years, fashion is such an integral part of their image, like Björk in the swan dress, Britney in the schoolgirl outfit. Not that that’s how he sees it: “Look, when it comes to this, I wish I could be all: ‘I wanted to change the world!’ But it’s more that it’s a byproduct of what we’re doing,”He says. Lambert has been central to this, a sort of Thomas Cromwell to Styles’s Henry VIII, but dissolving binaries instead of monasteries. As It Was, Styles became mainstream pop’s most determined subverter of gender stereotypes. The Met Gala’s 2019 Met Gala featured a sheer, black blouse with a single pearl earring and a tight, crimson Arturo Obegero jumpsuit. Styles performs in New York City, 2021.Photograph by Theo Wargo/Getty Images HS “but when it happened, it was still like: ‘Fuck, this is wild.’” Styles was always open to new challenges, he said. What emerged is best described as 1970s man, resurrected – flares, with a side of camp. He presented a wardrobe.“playful stuff, Gucci and JW Anderson, stuff like that”Styles agreed to give it another go.
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Lambert was mostly involved in styling magazines shoots and fashion shows when they were first introduced. “Jagger period”, wearing black Saint Laurent suits, Chelsea boots and leonine hair tamed by bright bandanas – fashion filtered through NME rather than GQ. Styles was going through his own career, and rumours circulated about Styles starting a solo career. Harry met Harry around the time of One Direction’s 2014 album, Four. It’s an intimate space! I’m aware that a lot of the attention I get is because of him, but I want to be very careful. I’m often the last person they see before they go on stage. You have to remember I am there in the most intimate times with people I work with. “When it comes to questions about Harry, I just consider our relationship too private to go too deep. It’s like trying to get blood from a stone to get Lambert to talk about Styles. W alking down the narrow corridor towards stylist Harry Lambert’s studio, I can’t be the first person to wonder if Harry Styles – Lambert’s most famous client – has trod the same blue carpet.